More About That -- December, 2013

The List -- Is It Karma?

If you don't know what we mean by "The List", see our immediately prior post.  Warning: very little / none of the following will make sense until you have read that post.  

We've learned a little more (though precious little still) about our embargo situation.  We've learned that the marina sweep here in La Cruz was just one of many and that, depending on one's source of information, there are either 300-something or 500-something boats throughout Mexico that are On The List.  The (perhaps) good news is that many of those boats are owned by people who have a greater economic stake in getting cleared from The List than we do; charter captains, mega-yacht owners and such.  

For a relatively accurate press report of the/our situation see the most recent post on 'Lectronic Latitude -- the electronic version of Latitude 38, a widely-read Northern California-based sailing magazine.  [Note:  We think the 'Lectronic Latitude report is slightly hyperbolic when it complains about not being able to "leave the dock".  The boats are not chained to the dock.  In fact, the reporter's embargoed boat was out sailing on Banderas Bay this past weekend.  What being on The List means is that the boat can't be cleared for departure by the Port Captain, which in turn means the boat can't enter any other port in Mexico.  And yes, theoretically one could "make a run for it" in the dead of night and sail out of Mexican waters to the Marquesas and try and enter there as though coming from the U.S. -- but really, let's be serious.]      

The not-so-good news part of what we've learned is that yesterday the managers of several marinas and the head of the marina trade association met with representatives of the federal government to press quick resolution of The List.  The government representatives' position was that by law the government has up to four months to address The List and that the government will take the time needed to do the job right.  Hearing this caused Molly a sinking moment of deja vu. . . .  over her two+ decades as a government lawyer she said very similar words more than once . . .  

Karma.  It's gonna get you.    

So, we're going to write the U.S. Consul in Puerto Vallarta and say that we're one of the many boats that are under precautionary embargo and that we're ready, willing and able to provide any of Abracadabra's documentation to the Mexican government to confirm that we are in the country legally.  And then we'll wait.  There's a farmer's market on Sunday, a wine tasting on Monday night at Yaya's Cafe and a movie in the sailor's lounge on Thursday . . . 

A Final Thought:  Though it's not new information to either of us, this experience has also reminded us that at some point misery does not love company.  The benefits of exercising Our God Given Right as Americans to gripe about a situation has worn thin.  As it turns out no one on the dock really wants to hear about our situation.  They want us to hear about theirs.  

Karma.

But Wait!  There's More!

In our last post we also wrote about boat work done / stuff purchased over the last two months. And, as hard as it may be for you to imagine, we forgot to mention stuff!  

               Galley Fan -- $50.  We wrote about fans in our last post and even about this, Molly's favorite fan.  [A happy cook = a happy crew.]  But what we failed to mention is that this cute little fan is held up by one of the nicest pieces of woodwork on Abracadabra, courtesy of our friend Martin Roysher.  Captain Bryce requested a small wooden base to mount the galley fan on the galley pole and, in true Arts and Crafts fashion, Martin turned that little utilitarian block into art. Thanks, Martin!

Aaaaahh !!

  

               A New Solar Panel -- $400.  We have added a 50 watt panel to our bimini-top solar farm and now have 250 watts of solar.  While there still won't be enough power for Molly to use a blow-drier when we are at anchor, we can watch CD's on our lap top more often!

Our Solar Farm

               Lifelines and Cockpit Railings -- $1400.  All of the old, grungy and about-to-be-safety-hazard lifelines (the cables that run around the deck of the boat and keep people and stuff from falling off) have been replaced by new, shiny, strong stainless lifelines. And Abracadabra's entrance gate, which originally was almost six feet wide - and of zero assistance to anyone trying to get on or off the boat - is now 24 inches wide.  On each side of the entry way there is now a sturdy stainless steel stanchion.  Marian Leonard - you'll be safer now!  (That's a long and scary old story . . . ) 

Welcome Aboard!

Around the cockpit we replaced the lifelines with stainless railing; sturdy, smooth bars to lean on, to catch clumsy crew members and to hold the barbecue grill.  These make our "back porch" much more comfortable.  And they look really spiffy too.    

Porch Rails

  

That's it for this season; not because our ideas are exhausted, but because our budget is.  But every day when we get onto the boat we talk about how we love our new gate or shade or . . .   something.  Thanks for letting us show off!

More on when we're able to go when we're able to go!

Oh Lord, Stuck in La Cruz Again . . . -- December, 2013

Show Us Your Papers

It had to happen sooner or later.  We are, after all, foreigners here.  We've been caught up in officialdom and Abracadabra is now on a list of boats that will not be given permission to leave La Cruz.  Staff at the marina tell us that, because of the upcoming holidays, the likelihood is that if she doesn't get cleared this week, she'll be stuck here into 2014.  Ah, of course - said the former civil servants - The Holidays. 

The Prisoner

How did this happen?  We're not entirely sure, but here's what we know:  

Mexico has a new federal administration.  Our experience as State of California civil servants taught us that a change in administration always means that Stuff Will Happen. Sometimes even important, relevant stuff.  

          Instituto National de Migracion  (INM)

First came a surprise visit from the Mexican federal government's immigration branch (INM) to see if any among the motley crew of mariners in La Cruz were without proper immigration documentation.  [As Homeland Security will tell you, it's best not to give notice of immigration searches.]  Fortunately, Molly was on board when they arrived and produced our passports and tourist cards. Score one successful encounter with officialdom.    

          Servicio de Administracion Tributaria (SAT)

Unlike most tourist card holders (the tourist card is what each tourist coming to Mexico gets when he or she gets off the plane) we have a boat in Mexico.  And as humble as she may be in the world of yachts, she is our home.  When we brought Abracadabra to Mexico we obtained a "temporary import permit" (TIP) which allows us to keep her here for up to ten years without paying import duty.  That's a big break for us - try bringing a boat into California and staying for ten years without paying "use tax" - ha! 

Apparently someone at the Mexican government's tax branch (SAT) recently thought about the many foreign yachts in Mexican marinas (some of which are very fancy) and wondered if all of them had proper TIPs.  And as any tax inspector will tell you, if you're inspecting movable property you don't announce that visit in advance either.

So, as we were busily giving thanks in The Greater Los Angeles Area, SAT came calling.  SAT saw photocopies of Abracadabra's TIP and related documents at the marina office - but they didn't see us. Abracadabra was put on a list of boats that either didn't have proper documentation or whose owner or manager wasn't on board at the time of SAT's visit.  

The List.  

SAT then told the Port Captain that boats on The List are not to be given permission to depart for another port until cleared by SAT.  As to which government entity trumps in this situation, for SAT, think: IRS.

Our first reaction was that this was not a problem - Bryce was still busy installing stuff, and a return visit by SAT had been scheduled.  Last week we spent three days tag-team boat sitting so that whenever SAT arrived on our dock one of us would be aboard.  As it happened when they arrived we were both on board.  We waved the original TIP and other documents at them but they were not interested in any of our documents.  By the time they arrived at Abracadabra the issue had become whether our hull number matched the hull number on our TIP (apparently another boat had this problem).  So we showed them that it did.  Smiles all around.  Assurances that all was well.  Ah, score two successful encounters. 

But no.  

We have now learned that, as congenial as the encounter was -- it wasn't successful. What has happened is the worst of all possible governmental things: The List has been kicked upstairs for clearance.  It's in Guadalajara.  

Today a very polite, intimidatingly militaristic looking young man at the Port Captain's office confirmed that Abracadabra is on The List and won't receive an exit permit from the Port Captain until cleared from The List.  He suggested Aduana (Customs) in Puerto Vallarta could clear her from The List - but he can't tell us what Aduana will want to see from us, or whether Aduana in Puerto Vallarta (though part of SAT) has the authority to clear a boat from The List that is now in Guadalajara.  The staff of the marina (a private business that is most closely associated with the government's tourism office) assure us they are working on our behalf, but suggest that we prepare to enjoy Christmas and New Years in La Cruz.  

The disconcerting thing for a former government lawyer like Molly is that we haven't received anything in writing - nothing that prohibits us from leaving or explains how we might get Abracadabra off The List.  Regulations and process; they're really a good thing.  

What would happen if we just sailed away, as some of our more aggressive sailing compadres have suggested?  Or, as others have suggested - is this the time to ask whether there is "a way to bring resolution to this" and offer someone some money?  Aside from the fact that we're just plain too timid to bet our house - literally - on a positive outcome of either of those approaches -- have we mentioned we're former civil servants that think that governmental process in general is a good thing?  Sigh - we only hope that there is a process and that it will play out soon!      

Bottom Line:  We are free to move about the cabin, but Abracadabra is in La Cruz until "Guadalajara" decides that we've done what we need to do (whatever that is) to clear her from The List. 

And, for perspective:  As Molly's brother said:  Oh gee, stuck in Puerto Vallarta - boohoo." 

Nifty New Stuff

So since we're stuck here, we thought we'd take some time to show off our boat projects and purchases.  They range from pretty things that cost from $12 to $1,200 and safety related things that you can't really see that cost, well, a lot.  

Here they are, listed from least to most expensive because that's how we search all internet sales sights . . . 

               Cushions - $12:  Two cushions rescued from S/V Lanikai's "getting old stuff off the boat" pile + canvas left over from a prior project on Abracadabra + $12 paid to a tapiceria (upholstery shop) in Mazatlan = two comfy tushes:  

One of Two Comfy - and Cheerful - Cushions  

               Fans - Can't Have Too Many -- $100 each:  When we left San Diego equipped with two fans in Abracadabra's little salon, our friend Terry Heil, a veteran of several seasons in Central America, told us we didn't have enough fans.  And after two seasons in the heat - we knew he was right.  This year we have four in the salon -- including Molly's favorite: one pointed right at the cook.  

Aaaaah . . . 

               Galley Faucet - $150:  One new faucet with easy-operating lever and spray that - added bonus - doesn't leak = one happy cook and one happy dish washer.

It's The Little Things

               Shade, Glorious Shade - $1200:  This is our best shade system yet - Shade 2.0 (season one was Shade 1.0 and season two was more like Shade 1.5).  Designed by Captain Bryce, and created by Tapiceria Upholstery Works in Mazatlan with additional side shades by Sea Mar Canvas in La Cruz.  With this shade system the cockpit is a breezy "back porch". There are see-through side curtains that can be taken down to increase airflow and put on to block the sun, as required.  We had the top shade off yesterday for a minor adjustment and can attest that without it Abracadabra is at least 10 degrees warmer below!  Central America would be unthinkable without this addition.

Bedouins Afloat

               AIS - $1700:  There isn't much to look at here - it's electronic equipment and software.  But an important safety feature.  We can now see not only that a ship is near us (which we could see before with the radar) but know it's "call sign", which direction it's headed, and how fast it's going.  And we can hail that ship directly rather than send out a general call on the radio.  It turns that middle-o-the-night call to a big scary bunch of lights from a radio message that says something like "large ship near Latitude X and Longitude X we are a sailing vessel approximately X miles on your port/starboard - please don't run over us" into a direct call to that ship's bridge with an identification number that will record on the ship's navigation system (like an airplane's "black box").  They're more likely to pay attention to our call and tell us how to avoid them -- and if they don't our heirs will have a better chance of knowing who hit us.  

Automatic Identification System

So - that's our cool (ha - pun intended) new stuff which we hope to take South with us as soon as Abracadabra is no longer On The List!

Thanksgiving Thoughts

Yes, we know that we're a bit slow in posting Thanksgiving Thoughts since everyone in the U.S. was thankful over a week ago and the Canadians are way past that.  But hey -- we're retired.  Which, of course, is one of the things we're thankful for.  But this post is about some things that we became more aware of - and thankful for - as a result of our recent holiday trip to El Norte.  Such as:

• Family:  So, okay, this is the time of year everyone is supposed to be thankful for family because so sayeth every television sitcom and Wal-Mart ad.  But we just spent a week with Molly's brother Rob, his husband, Tom Reynolds and everybody's favorite standard poodle Bravo during one of the most stressful events in anyone's life: a move to a new house.  And as a result, we're really thankful that they are part of our family because even during a house move - including a massive computer crash, a refrigerator that the movers couldn't fit into the kitchen and ceiling light fixtures with impossible-to-find bulbs -- they were hospitable.  And that's the best kind of family to have: kind, thoughtful and generous New York Times subscribers that serve Peet's Coffee and watch Turner Classic Movies. 

A Restaurant Thanksgiving Dinner -- 
No One Was Brave Enough To Try Roasting A Turkey In The New Stove!

• Abracadabra:  As we arrived, the mover was leaving.  After a week of trying to find cereal bowls and toilet paper and the right light switch . . . we felt pretty good about returning to Abracadabra.  As a "house" she's really small -- but we know where the light switches are!

• Friends:  We joined friends from Molly's university days for tea at a tea shop with a daunting sixty-some page menu of teas.  Fortunately a nice waiter helped guide us through it -- but really, it's all about the scones and the people that you like to sharehem with.  Thanks for hosting us, and being our "hub", Judy!  

• And Helpful Friends:  Because we were afraid to ask Rob and Tom to undertake their usual chore of acting as the package depot for our internet orders of boat bits -- even people that can remain hospitable during a move have their limits -- we imposed on friends Anne and Jim Coleman to act as our mail drop.  And they even fed us when we came to pick up our nine packages!  It doesn't get much friendlier than that.  We will think of you all when our newly strengthened bimini holds firm in high winds! 

• Living in Mexico:  We often stock up on things that are either difficult to find or very expensive in Mexico when we return to the States (see above re: nine internet orders).  For example, this trip we bought a new camera (watch for - we hope - better blog pictures), a solar panel, some stainless steel bracket thingies and a 5-inch chef's knife.  And because our time in the States was short we ended up shopping on Black Friday.  Being among our countrymen and women at their best made it much easier to return to shopping in the smaller choice marketplace of Mexico!  

• Car-less-ness:  We sold our car this year which puts us in a small minority of U.S. residents.  Yes, we are car-less.  And a week of driving a rented SUV around the LA area has relieved us of any concern we may have had about the social stigma of car-less-ness.  True, trips to government offices in Puerto Vallarta (a one-hour bus ride on what are at times sketchy buses) and big grocery shops (a half an hour ride on the same bus line) are difficult without a car.  But walking from the marina into the village to pick up vegetables at the local market or for a late-night taco is a joy compared to driving to the mall. 

• Spanish Language Skills:  Bryce frequently complains that the service people we meet in coastal Mexico prefer to speak English and ignore the fact that he speaks Spanish quite well.  Fortunately, Spanish speakers in LA County are quite proud of their ability to speak Spanish!   During The Brothers' Great Move Bryce spent a day working with a local handyman, disassembling and reassembling two refrigerators and moving the newer one into the house and the older one into the garage -- all transacted in Spanish. 

So, here we are - back in La Cruz and, though we miss our family and friends in the States, happy to be here.  Soon we'll post on how our boat projects are going and what our plans are for heading south this season. 

* * * * * *

Random Unsolicited Thoughts on Learning Spanish:  On  more than one occasion English speakers have congratulated us on trying to learn Spanish, and have added that they think it's sad that so many people that immigrate to the U.S. / Canada never learn to speak English.  We appreciate their support of our attempts to improve our Spanish.  And after struggling for two months to improve our Spanish skills we have some thoughts about why some immigrants have difficulty learning the language of their new country:

• First - it's really hard to learn a new language!  Bryce speaks Spanish well, but he has been studying Spanish for decades.  Molly can barely make a full sentence after two months of study.  See our posts from Guanajuato about how hard it was, as mature students, to go to school for three hours a day.  And . . . we're not also busy working multiple jobs to make ends meet and/or raising children.
• Language school or tutoring can be expensive.  We are able to pay for first-rate language instruction.  Some immigrants may not be able to.  And even if they find free instruction it may be difficult for them to travel to class (see above re: car-less-ness and buses and such).
• We'll all use the language that's easiest when that option is available.  Immigrants often settle among people from their home country - and like the snowbirds that migrate together to the Mexican beach they can often get by using their home language.  We know Canadians and people from the U.S. that have lived in Mexico part-time for years who can't speak Spanish.  
• Not everyone is kind to someone struggling with a new language.  Molly is constantly amazed that (for the most part) Mexicans remain polite as they listen to her butcher their language.  But it's still embarrassing to feel sub-adult when trying to communicate.  And our experience is that English speakers are not always so kind to people that butcher our language.  

In sum, we have found learning a different language to be intellectually interesting - but also, very humbling.  Our request is that anyone that has not mastered a second language refrain from judging anyone else who has not been able to.  And add to your thankful list:  the I-Translate app and the ability to buy the product that runs that app!