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| Where Even The Mini-Supers Want Love (This Store is in Bocas Town - Not On Bastimentos -- We Just Liked The Picture) |
This post is inspired by a story by the notable travel writer Paul Theroux in the New York Times, in which he wrote:
"Speaking for myself, as a traveler, any great crisis -- war, famine, natural disaster or outrage -- ought to be an occasion to bear witness, even if it means leaving the safety of home."
We think the undercurrents of fear about COVID-19 and frustration about the movement restrictions intended to curb the spread of the disease might qualify as "outrage". But any witness we bear will be hampered by our inability to leave the safety of our island home. And we won't even pretend that we are in the same class with Paul Theroux -- as a writer (Molly) or an editor (Bryce) or as adventurers. But we are seeing a small slice of the world-wide pandemic response in a place most North Americans would consider "remote" so here is our limited "witness":
Update - Marine Traffic
Panamanian ports remain closed to non-commercial traffic, in and out. However, port captains seem to be accepting boats in distress, requiring the crew to remain aboard under quarantine for 14 days. The manager of Shelter Bay Marina outside of Colón has even worked out a way to provide food to boats in quarantine. Good work, Juan José Boschetti!
The two boats recently evicted at gunpoint from a Bocas del Toro anchorage (Port Captain: "Sorry, Buddy, you gotta go.") were allowed to return and remain, subject to a 14-day quarantine. One of those boats has been checking into the local morning radio net with "This is Tsanamara, Day X of 14". We're impressed by their composure and wonder what they will feel after their 14 days when they leave their quarantined boat only to enter a quarantined world.
This reversal of policy by the Port Captain and AeroNaval has been attributed to the combined efforts of Courtney Parks, owner and Luis Fabian, manager of Bocas Marina. We don't know Courtney well, but have worked a lot with Luis and have always found him to be a pleasant and helpful guy. Turns out he can also be a lifesaver when he has the economic clout of the marina behind him. For Bocas Town the marina is a large business.
Background For Anyone Who Has Never Given A Thought To The Winds and Swells Of The Western Caribbean: Traveling from Bocas del Toro to the Eastern Caribbean or beyond to the U.S. frequently/often/usually involves heading into wind and waves. Even when boaters wait for a "weather window" with mild conditions, this requires a sailboat to either spend hours and miles tacking to keep the wind at a favorable angle (exhausting, tripling the distance -- no sailor with a motor does this) or to motor into wind and waves (nauseating and rough but less time consuming). Thus the preferred route is to travel north-eastward to Colombia where winds are more favorable. Sailing from Colombia saves wear and tear on the crew and vessel. Fair winds to those who had to depart from Bocas and even those (editorial comment: foolish few) who chose to do so!
A marina neighbor, desperate to meet a personally imposed schedule for reasons we could not understand was one of the last boats permitted to leave Panama. He was determined to sail/motor to the U.S. Yesterday we learned that he had arrived in Cozumel, Mexico with a damaged mainsail and "creaky" - ? - rudder bearings. He continues to express confidence that he will be able to travel on to the U.S.. We are still scratching our heads as to why anyone would go barreling into the virus storm that is Florida.
Today there is radio traffic about another boat turned away from Bocas several days ago (Manna). Manna has lost its transmission and they are sailing (slowly - reportedly 1.5 knots) back to Bocas where they will seek refuge. Once again people are reaching out to Luis and Courtney. Best to Manna.
Update - Panamá / Bocas
The government of Panama has been steadily ramping up restrictions on movement. As of a week ago the only people allowed to leave their homes are those employed in performing an essential function. The one exception is grocery shopping which is now limited to one person per household for one hour a day on a schedule linked to the last digit of either the shopper's national identification number ("cedula") or passport (for non-nationals). As of tomorrow an additional restriction goes into place: only women may shop on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; only men on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. No one shops Sunday.
Grocery shopping is the only exception to the stay at home order. No outside exercise, no dog walking. Potential fines as high as $100,000. Fortunately we have read only about threatened fines. At least the Panamanian government has the political will to call these restrictions what they are: quarantine.
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| Bocas Town Wasn't All That Busy Before The Quarantine |
Grocery shopping is the only exception to the stay at home order. No outside exercise, no dog walking. Potential fines as high as $100,000. Fortunately we have read only about threatened fines. At least the Panamanian government has the political will to call these restrictions what they are: quarantine.
The local government and local non-profit organizations are working with the police to mobilize food deliveries to indigenous groups in the outer islands. We donated to one of the organizations yesterday, choosing based on which group could accept electronic payment. We can't get to the bank and are trying to preserve cash!
There are no reported cases of COVID-19 in Bocas del Toro province. Perhaps this is due to inability to widely test for the virus. The new little hospital is reported to be very nice -- but small. A goal is to never have personal knowledge of this hospital.
Update - Red Frog Marina
We unadventurous (cautious, reasonable ?, etc.) types remain at the dock at Red Frog Marina, a community of 35+/- live-aboards. This still appears to have been a wise choice despite the periodic restrictions imposed on us without notice. The manager here has many necessary core competencies. Group communications not included.
We are no longer permitted to leave the marina to go to town, even to shop for groceries. We have been told that anyone who leaves the marina will no longer be permitted to return. E.g.: A family that had been living in an apartment in town to accommodate their children's school schedule decided to move onto their boat in the marina when the school was closed. Their intention was to be remote from the larger crowds of town. Their bit-by-bit day-by-day moving process was interrupted by the marina's instantaneously effective decision to prohibit access to town. They have possessions trapped in the apartment which they cannot access. Remote indeed.
A dock-side drop-off and delivery program has been established for filling propane tanks, prescriptions, etc. Hopefully that will continue to be available -- we cook with propane and are not yet ready to join the Raw Food movement.
Water and electricity are still working. The intermittent WiFi is still intermittent. Electricity, water pumps and WiFi require diesel fuel to power the Red Frog resort's generators. Fortunately, there's a mega-yacht at the dock (Hampshire -- crew only on board) with -- we hope -- deep enough pockets and strong enough business clout to help assure that these utilities and the required diesel deliveries will continue. In addition, Hampshire is so big it provides shade for a large chunk of the dock. The .01% do occasionally benefit those in the 37-foot sailboat class!
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| Hampshire - All 217 Feet / 66.25 Meters |
The marina office staff are working remotely. The dock workers have been moved into nearby housing to avoid bringing contamination from town.
Yesterday afternoon the manager announced over the radio that (the ever-smiling) Uchi, who does fluff-n-fold laundry and cleans the communal shower house would not be returning after the end of the day. We had a few minutes to run up and give her a "severance tip". Only later, through the grapevine, did we hear that Uchi had been let go because she was unwilling to leave her family and move to this island. The announcement didn't include any information about how the shower house would be cleaned. Later we heard that we would be able to purchase quarters from the marina manager so we can do our own laundry. That was a relief. No word on who would take care of Uchi's garden.
Because the large Red Frog resort property is private we have -- so far -- been able to walk on the roads and jungle paths. There are even beaches nearby that are unlikely to be observed by the AeroNaval. These beaches have a fierce undertow and are not good for swimming - but we can see them and hear the waves. All of this is a god-send for those living in a space of about 300 sq. ft..
Interestingly, because the construction of resort condos (yes, paradise about to be lost) has ceased the local fauna have been more visible and active. In a recent walk we saw Capuchin monkeys crossing the road - not swinging over it from branch to branch as usual, but sauntering along it! We have also seen the tiny, red poison dart frogs the resort is named for in places we have never seen them before.
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| Abel, Master Dock Hand And The Essence of Cool |
Yesterday afternoon the manager announced over the radio that (the ever-smiling) Uchi, who does fluff-n-fold laundry and cleans the communal shower house would not be returning after the end of the day. We had a few minutes to run up and give her a "severance tip". Only later, through the grapevine, did we hear that Uchi had been let go because she was unwilling to leave her family and move to this island. The announcement didn't include any information about how the shower house would be cleaned. Later we heard that we would be able to purchase quarters from the marina manager so we can do our own laundry. That was a relief. No word on who would take care of Uchi's garden.
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| Uchi Tended The Flowers Outside the Laundry / Bath House |
Because the large Red Frog resort property is private we have -- so far -- been able to walk on the roads and jungle paths. There are even beaches nearby that are unlikely to be observed by the AeroNaval. These beaches have a fierce undertow and are not good for swimming - but we can see them and hear the waves. All of this is a god-send for those living in a space of about 300 sq. ft..
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| Nearby Vista |
Interestingly, because the construction of resort condos (yes, paradise about to be lost) has ceased the local fauna have been more visible and active. In a recent walk we saw Capuchin monkeys crossing the road - not swinging over it from branch to branch as usual, but sauntering along it! We have also seen the tiny, red poison dart frogs the resort is named for in places we have never seen them before.
The little grocery store at the resort is not only still open, it has improved its service. The staff -- swaddled in gloves and masks -- take orders which are filled when there's product available at the large parent store in Bocas Town. Recently we ordered and received ... chard! Today we picked up parsley. Unfortunately they do not carry medicine beyond Pepto Bismol and Advil. Hopefully nothing stronger will be needed.
One restaurant on the island is open for pizza delivery on the down low. We haven't tried that yet but think we will to help keep the possibility open. It's good pizza.
Our little community has remained, for the most part, civil and polite. Sides have been taken over the family trying to get to their stuff from town. Prior to that misfortune another boat was put on a 14-day lock down when one of the occupants strayed off property and visited a friend. Again, sides have been taken. Some people still gather for evening cocktails -- standing apart from one another on the dock. Others find this dangerous. Several people are apparently aching to be useful, which we understand, and hurt when their efforts are not appreciated. One nice lady offered to pray for anyone who asked. We understand fully that it would be helpful to us to feel helpful to others. We accept the advice, information, offers of assistance and intervention as well-intended though sometimes it just adds to the rampant anxiety information overload we are experiencing.
Update - Abracadabra
Which brings us to us. First an over-arching statement: We absolutely understand that movement restrictions are important and necessary. We chose to remain in Panama rather than fly back to U.S. and still believe we are doing the right thing. But we are human. This post is our witness and it should be accurate. So, please be tolerant of the grouses above and below: We remain physically healthy. We try not to think of how far away the nearest real hospital is. We bought into that years ago - though it seemed more abstract then (as in: what if we fell while hiking and broke . . . ?).
We do our best not to dwell on how or when the "Current Plan" will work -- see our prior post re: what that plan used to be if you're interested. See above re: how a plan can get you to Cozumel with a torn main sail or stuck in a marina unable to get to your stuff in town. Our good news is that we were able to cancel our planned lodgings in Sacramento due to the kindness of the landlord.
As for our respective "soul states":
Molly: "I find my attention span has shrunk to that of a 14-year old social media addict. I flip through the e-news and don't read more than the first couple of sentences. I have lots of information about how to spend my time wisely (listening to podcasts, learning to knit or bake bread, writing a novel ....) but - I haven't. I haven't even downloaded War and Peace. This must be anxiety. Interesting feeling. Fortunately my buddy Bryce makes me go for a walk every day. See above re: wildlife. My current resolution is to get through this without gaining too much weight or making anyone else's life hell (including Bryce's)."
Bryce: "My aerial survey career gave me great experience being stuck in places where I would not have freely chosen to be. But I thought part of the definition of "retired" meant those events were behind me. Apparently not. I keep busy with minor boat repair projects as usual. I eat more junk food and refuse to feel guilty. Actually my greatest "sadness" is that I have developed (self diagnosed) a condition called After Cataracts since my cataract surgery of a couple years ago. The back of the pocket where the new lens lives clouds over and while you may still officially have 20.20 vision everything is clouded over. Easily corrected - later, in Sacramento. Or maybe its just that I've chosen to read (large print on tablet) a Carlos Fuentes novel in Spanish. That would make anybody's vision cloud over!"
Despite our self-described angst (anxiety?) we do have some good news. Bryce's sister who at 79 is even more firmly in the "at risk" category than we are, has been quite sick for the last several weeks with an un-diagnosed respiratory cold/flu. Ontario is still telling most sick people to stay home and see if they get worse. After a long period of self-isolation (supported by food deliveries by her daughters) Brenda has turned the corner and is feeling much better. COVID-19 is not the only way to get sick, it seems! Keep washing your hands even when this virus is not the enemy.
We have had a couple of "virtual happy hour" events with friends in the U.S. and Canada and have heard stories about the difficulties of their quarantines (or whatever the applicable local government chooses to call it). It sounds as though the worst for many is not being near grandchildren. This is a sorrow we don't have, but we certainly appreciate that it is hard for people not to be near those they love!
This made us think about how else our situation is different from most of our friends "at home" - some of which probably make things easier for us:
- We are sheltering in a smaller "home" than most. The Facebook cartoons about where to travel that show a two-bedroom apartment? That apartment looks spacious to us! Abracadabra is not climate controlled - which makes it feel larger than it is and keeps us breathing real, rather than recycled air.
- We don't have delivery service and so cannot order diverting stuff. This is probably saving us lots of money and, fortunately neither of us really wants to learn to knit. That said, we can't even order boat parts. Even if we could get to town, the previously thriving delivery services (at least three in Bocas Town including Mail Boxes Etc.) have closed because shipments are not coming in from Miami.
- We have WiFi but signed up for only one streaming service before we left the U.S., so our ability to spend an afternoon watching Netflix or catching up on Mad Men (yes, we are that far out of date!) is zip. We have some DVDs (remember DVDs?) aboard to augment our one streaming service (Acorn) and should be entertained often enough if we ration judiciously and this quarantine doesn't last . . . too long.
- We may be more familiar with the idea of not doing much than the average land-based North American. Partly because we are lazy. Partly because we are okay with just sitting and looking at what's going on around us and commenting on the weather, water and stars. But also because "regular stuff" can keep us busy. Making a real dinner in our little galley requires coordination and time because we have: a cooler-style fridge, the top of which doubles as counter space; a three burner stove that can't accommodate three real-sized pans at the same time; and no reliable freezer. The dishwasher (we call him Bryce) is efficient, but can't be turned on and left to run while we sleep. Grocery shopping requires an extended follow-up period of stowing things in tiny, out-of-the-way spaces. Clean laundry required the same even when Uchi was taking care of us. Now it will keep us entertained for several hours a week.
And so - we have explained and complained. Hopefully this is informative and you don't think we are complete crabs. We still see great sunsets and the occasional rainbow.
Our neighbors remain neighborly in a 6-foot radius and Whatsapp kind of way. Our walks are very interesting. Bryce loves the burbling, yellow-tailed Montezuma Oropendolas.
When the internet is functioning we have access to the Sacramento County Library's e-book service. We believe this quarantine to be temporary -- even if long-term temporary -- and that the world will eventually be All Good / Todo Bien again. Until then we will occasionally write about what isn't.
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| Rainbow From Our Stern -- Causing Us To Miss The Sunset To Starboard |
Our neighbors remain neighborly in a 6-foot radius and Whatsapp kind of way. Our walks are very interesting. Bryce loves the burbling, yellow-tailed Montezuma Oropendolas.
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| Oropendolas Make Fabulous Nests And Have A Fascinating Burbling Call |
When the internet is functioning we have access to the Sacramento County Library's e-book service. We believe this quarantine to be temporary -- even if long-term temporary -- and that the world will eventually be All Good / Todo Bien again. Until then we will occasionally write about what isn't.
