The final portion of our trip to France with Bryce's sister Brenda was spent in Paris -- Bryce's third trip, Molly's second and Brenda's first. The planning challenge was to make sure Brenda visited enough of Paris's Greatest Hits to feel like she had truly been there and to not spend too much of our limited travel time repeating prior visit(s). Fortunately many of the Greatest Hits are worth multiple visits and there are so many of them that we had only touched on a few during our prior visit.
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The View From "Our" Place
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Some Logistics Improvements
The post about our prior trip (link above) includes a lot of complaints about the swarming tourist crowds in Paris. The good news for us, as travelers, and you, as patient reader, is that on this trip we took some steps which reduced our crowd kvetching -- during the trip and in this post:
A Residential Neighborhood: Instead of trying to maximize our time by staying within the tourist center of Paris we rented an apartment in a residential area of the 13th Arrondissement (aka Gobelins). Our immediate neighborhood was a successful choice, made somewhat accidentally, though we had improved our odds of finding a neighborhoody place by checking what we could on Google Maps to identify nearby businesses and services. There was a metro stop and a bus stop nearby to connect us to Tourist Paris with few line changes. We were also located near enough to Marché Mouffetard, one of Paris' market streets, to shop for bread, coffee, cheese, wine, fruit and vegetables for breakfasts and dinners at home.
Spacious Digs With A View: Our corner apartment was larger and more visually spacious than our previous Paris digs but because it was further "out" and a bit shabby, not shockingly more expensive. It was on the 15-floor and the spectacular views made evenings "at home" very pleasant -- even if the kitchen was sub-par, the charming mid-century furniture less than comfortable and the black-tiled toilet room weird and claustrophobic. We told ourselves the subtle hint of lingering cigarette smoke was . . . very French. It turns out that we can forgive a lot for a good view.
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| World Class Visual Space |
Clearly our days of saying "oh, it doesn't matter where we stay, we're not in our hotel room that often, we're here to experience life in X . . . " are DONE. The struggle to balance our desire for pleasant down-time space and our frugality continues.
Public Transportation Hacks: Because we were going to be using public transportation daily, Bryce took charge of getting each of us a
Carte Navigo Decouverte. There's a bit of organizing required on the front end - properly sized pictures and a trip to a sales office - but these re-chargeable cards avoid the hassle of buying and keeping track of paper tickets. We charged ours for a week, but the card itself can be recharged at any time during the next ten years. We're set for our next trip to Paris as long as the French will let U.S. residents in sometime before September, 2029!
Molly kept hoping someone would ask to check her card because it actually had an okay picture . . .
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Molly's Deconstructed Carte Navigo
They Come With Sturdy Plastic Covers |
We also made the effort to learn about the bus system. Bus routes are a bit more difficult to understand than metro routes but it's fun to be able to sight-see while commuting.
Recommended Dining: On the recommendation of our landlord we visited both a nearby low-key little bistro (Le Comptoir Marguery) and its nearby related, more formal restaurant Au Petit Marguery. [FYI there's another restaurant of the same name on the other side of the Seine which we know nothing about.] The delicious restaurant visit was Brenda's treat. Thanks, Brenda! Following recommendations may lack the "serendipity" of stumbling into a great place by accident -- but the meal may be better.
New To Us Paris
Some random thoughts on those sites we enjoyed for the first time during this trip:
Musée d'Orsay
We very much enjoyed our trip to the Musée d'Orsay. This former railroad station (the beaux-arts Gare d'Orsay) turned art museum is worth a visit not only to view the art - but also to see the building.
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Brenda Working The Audio Guide
Statue - Contemplating |
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Inside The Train Station Clock
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We have mused about why the Orsay was a better experience for us than our trips to the Louvre (spoiler alert . . . ) and think it's not only because the Orsay is somewhat less crowded, but also because the museum's collection is focused and less ethically conflicted. Unlike the Louvre's vast collection of art ranging from Ancient (much of which was looted by Napoleon and Napoleon III) to Contemporary, the Orsay's collection is limited to Impressionists and post-Impressionists and, for most part, displays art purchased from the artists.
Some Orsay Travel Tips: (1) At the time of our visit there was no way to pre-arrange a date or time-specific visit to the Orsay. Pre-purchased tickets only buy the right to a slightly shorter entrance process. (2) Avoid the Orsay when the Louvre is closed and crowds of museum-hungry tourists descend on the Orsay. During our visit the Louvre was closed on Tuesdays and when we (foolishly, it turned out) arrived at the Orsay early on Tuesday morning the ticket-holder line snaked around the block. Those without pre-purchased tickets could not enter. On the following Friday the ticket-holder line was relatively short and painless. (3) When launching questions about the Orsay on internet travel sites remember the museum's name "Musée d'Orsay" reflects that it is a museum at - d' - the old Orsay train station. In English the name would be the Orsay Museum, not the d'Orsay Museum. You will save embarrassment if you remember this. We know about that.
Museum Photography Musings: As previously noted in this blog, we like to take pictures of pictures -- and statues -- even if we can find better art photographs of them in books and on the Internet. A popular view is that photographing art is a feeble attempt to capture the experience by those who cannot really See Art; that the camera distances the photographer from the art. Sure, maybe. But perhaps for some of us looking through the lens and framing, separating and identifying a section of a painting or statue can act to direct our view and bring the art into focus. Plus it's nice for the memory-impaired who need to be reminded of what they saw . . .
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Detail: Renoir's Bal Du Moulin De La Galette
Is She Shy, or Anxious? |
Sainte-Chapelle
On our prior trip we devoted most of our time on the Ile-de-la-Cité to visiting the Notre Dame de Paris. Notre Dame being no longer available (the latest information is that it will reopen in 2024) we spent time walking the island and visited Sainte-Chapelle, the private chapel of the kings of France located within the Palais de la Cité (residence and seat of French royal power from the 10th to the 14th centuries).
The chapel is . . . spectacular. As intended.
We were awed by the size, colors and level of detail in the chapel's windows. They are sparkling graphic novels telling many of the stories from the Old Testament (Genesis, Exodus, Ruth, Job - the big hits); the story of Jesus's birth, life, death and resurrection; and the warnings of the book of Revelation.
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Our Camera Could Not Do Justice To the Detailed Faces
-- Hopefully You Can Get An Idea |
We particularly liked the story of one window: Louis IX's purchase of the holy relics the chapel had been built to house from Baldwin II, Emperor of the short-lived Latin Empire of Constantinople. We aren't sure we had ever heard of this empire before . . . . Baldwin II sold the relics (including a fragment of the cross on which Jesus was crucified and the crown of thorns Jesus wore) in a complicated transaction involving a very large sum of money and the retrieval of the crown of thorns from Venice where it was being held as collateral for a previous loan to the empire. The prestige conferred by the ownership of the relics was enormous -- Paris became the "New Jerusalem". This window is a master class in the religious underpinnings of the Divine Right of Kings.
Some post-window FYI: About 30 years after the sale Baldwin II was forced into exile where he presumably lived comfortably on the sale proceeds that weren't passed on to Venice. Subsequent kings of France gave away the thorns in the crown to important people they liked or were afraid of and today what's left is a circle of woven reeds. The shrine holding the relics was melted down during the French Revolution (see above re: divine right of kings) and the relics were transferred to the national library and then on to Notre Dame de Paris. They survived the fire. Louis IX was made a saint.
Sacre Coeur
Our other moment of religious tourism was a visit to the Basilica of the Sacred Heart in Montmartre. Sacre Coeur is a huge, white, dazzling building on the top of the "mountain of martyrs" built in the style of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul - note the domes. Some might see the Taj Mahal (big, white).
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Sacre Coeur
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The church was built by a group of religiously motivated Frenchmen "in reparation" for France's fall to Germany during the Franco-Prussian War. The individuals behind the vow to build the church were sure France had lost the war because of the country's spiritual failings. Or it could have been because Napoleon III wanted a big win to bolster his popularity and got disastrous advice from France's Generals . . .
There is a spectacular mosaic inside the church (see above re: Hagia Sophia) but a highlight of anyone's visit is likely to be the view of Paris from Montmartre.
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| Bryce Doing The Tourist Thing |
Molly's main memory of the day is the fabulous falafel plate she had at a little corner café in Montmartre. We all worship differently.
Conciergerie
A medieval royal residence which later became a judicial administration building and prison overseen by a steward or "concierge", the Conciergerie played a pivotal role during the French Revolution. For anyone interested in trying to follow how the well-intentioned revolution escalated into The Terror, this museum is a good place to start. It might also convince the visitor of the value of governmental checks and balances.
This museum also provides a look into the operation of an 18th century prison - the ultimate in prison privatization. One room includes a few things previously owned by Marie Antoinette; very poignant reminders that she was a human and not just a thoughtless, despotic ruler oblivious to the plight of thousands of starving, powerless peasants. Justice is confusing sometimes.
Napoleon's Tomb
We hadn't bothered to visit Napoleon's Tomb on our prior trip because aggrandized despots aren't really our thing -- well, except for those who oversaw the Roman Empire which fascinate Bryce for reasons Molly can't quite figure out. But Napoleon was a disastrous influencer of French history, so we went. Those interested in studying narcissistic personality disorder might also find this tomb fascinating.
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A Type Of Memorial That Has Fallen Out Of Fashion
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Eiffel Tower
We rode the Batobus past the Eiffel Tower during our last trip, but had decided not to spend the time or money to ride the tower's elevators. Ditto this year, though we did walk under the tower, which one can do for free. That's pretty spectacular for anyone who is interested in engineering and iron work.
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| That Tower Is BIG |
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It's Also - Lacy
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Tuileries Gardens
We walked from the Eiffel Tower to Napoleon's Tomb through the Tuileries Gardens; at least 10,000 steps . . . and some great views. You can see better pictures of the buildings, statues and bridges elsewhere; here are a few of the people we saw last September:
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Take Home Your Own Eiffel Tower!
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Take Your Friend's Picture Pointing To The Tower!
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Get Your Modeling Resume Pictures Updated!
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Vietnamese Food With Friends
We had the good fortune of sharing dinner with sailing friends Manuela and Olivier who, after selling their sailboat in Florida had returned to France and set up home in Paris. Manuela had gone corporate and Olivier had purchased a motorcycle and begun flying lessons. Once a dare-devil, always a dare-devil.
They recommended a Vietnamese restaurant -- a Paris first for us. It was a fun evening catching up with friends and we enjoyed the food, but were fascinated by the differences between the dishes we were served and those we are familiar with from Vietnamese restaurants in California -- particularly because both places have very large communities of people whose families immigrated from Vietnam. E.g.: Bao were called dim sum (we failed to ask what to ask for if we wanted to eat dim sum). We were introduced to caramel chicken - a Vietnamese dish new to us. Best -- it was a truly off the tourist trail experience.
Worth A Second Visit (Mostly)
We re-visited several places in order to give Brenda a full Paris experience but to be honest, mostly to avoid our family reacting with horror at finding Bryce hadn't included a visit to, say, the Louvre. ["You didn't arrange for her to visit . . . what?!"]. Here's what we found on our repeat visits to:
The Louvre
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| We Were There! |
Once again we found it difficult to enjoy our visit to the epically crowded Louvre.
This year's Experience Improvement Plan included: a late afternoon / evening visit (times purported to be less popular with tour groups) and a mid-visit early dinner at the pleasant Café Angelina inside the museum where we had previously enjoyed lunch. Our plan failed in its execution: First, we clearly were not the only ones to have read that the Louvre is less busy during the evenings. Next, the half-hour we had scheduled for traveling through the vast museum to the restaurant was insufficient -- we got about halfway there only to realize the restaurant would be closing soon. [Background: Shutting down various elevators and notifying visitors of this by posting information next to the already closed elevators -- a crowd control measure or a deep seated hatred of tourists?]
A sandwich from the lobby sandwich bar almost provided adequate nutrition but no place to sit and relax. The Louvre lobby has very few chairs and fewer tables, most of the latter covered in sticky soda residue.
Despite the failure of our plan, we were able to spend some time looking without bumping into other tourists.
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Brenda, Looking
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We did have one good laugh. We returned to see "Her" (our friend Christina's term for the
Mona Lisa) - it was Brenda's first visit and She is a must. We found that She had been moved and new crowd control measures had been put into place. There was a long, winding, slow moving line herded by shouting guards -- think: a TSA security line. This did result in fewer people crowding in front of the painting at any one time and we actually got an unobstructed view for a moment or two. But our personal experience was improved by the fact that, to accommodate the TSA-style line the Mona Lisa had been moved to a different room. As we shuffled along in line Bryce burst into laughter -- and pointed out that She had been moved to the room of giant Peter Paul Rubens paintings commissioned by Marie de Medici (in 1621) which, on our previous visit we had found to be
the least crowded room in the museum. To see the giant paintings of Marie and Henry IV (her husband and ticket to the French aristocracy) completely ignored by the crowds surging forward to see the tiny Mona Lisa was the height of our visit. How the mighty do get ignored . . . though we did feel a little sorry for Rubens.
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Brenda In Line - Marie On The Wall
- And The Mona Lisa Out Front |
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| Her Line |
Some Humble Tourists' Louvre Musings: Those better schooled in Art Appreciation may be able to block out crowds or wait patiently for a good sight line, but we found it exhausting and unrewarding to try and stand back enough to appreciate the spectacle of a large piece, get close enough to appreciate the brush-strokes that created the shine on the pearl or lace or walk around a statue to see it from various angles without being blocked or jostled -- or feeling like a jerk for doing the same to someone else. Perhaps the current global "social distancing" experience will require the Louvre to improve what they offer. Our humble suggestions are:
- The Louvre management might consider sending a representative to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City where a moving sidewalk has been installed to motor visitors past the shroud containing the Lady of Guadalupe's image. Everyone gets their momentary look. Surely a moving sidewalk passing Her would cost only a small fraction of the millions of Euros that flow into the museum every week.
- How about sacrificing one wing of the Louvre to The Top Ten Hits, in recognition that the Louvre's business model needs to embrace the idea that it is not just an art museum - but a major tourist attraction. Many tour groups won't have to go anywhere else in the museum. Those who want to see more can - and more freely.
- You're welcome, Louvre - no consulting fee.
Beyond The Louvre
As during our prior visit, we passed Notre Dame by land and by Seine.
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| Notre Dame w/ Scaffolding |
We used the Batobus as transportation and for sight-seeing.
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| Same Tourist, Similar Photo, Different Year |
We walked along the banks of the Seine and came across some Fashion Week gatherings which were fun to watch. We were not invited in.
The route from our apartment to the Seine took us back through the Jardin des Plantes.
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| We Stopped To Consider The Flowers |
We did a walk-by of the Arc de Triomphe and spent an evening at a concert by the Orchestre de Paris at the Philharmonie -- a long metro ride to the 19th Arrondissement, but worth the effort to see the spectacular building and hear Holst's The Planets performed by France's leading symphony.
We also re-visited the Galleries Lafayette -- but rather than focus on the shopping center's glass dome as we had last time, we focused on finding a gift for Brenda's youngest granddaughter (our great-niece) -- the rest of the clan's gifts having been taken care of previously.
On Our Own
During Brenda's week with us in Paris we hit as many of the Greatest Hits as we could comfortably pack in -- and then it was time for our sister and travel companion to return to Canada. All-in-all it had been a great 3 weeks in France.
Our trip to Charles De Gaulle airport was carefully planned, using public transportation and our Navigo cards -- clever us! we thought. We made it only part of the way there. The bus passed its stop near the train station without stopping. What had just happened? Had there been a change in schedule -- posted somewhere obvious but in small-type French? -- that we had missed? Fearing we would not be able to make the RER train connection to the airport, we took a cab.
We will never know what went wrong with our original plan, but are happy to report that the cab got to the airport in plenty of time for Brenda to catch her plane to Toronto. Our return into Paris using public transportation and our Navigo cards went smoothly. Note: Even a one-way trip to/from Charles De Gaulle makes a weekly Carte Navigo worth purchasing.
The next day, our last full day in Paris, we joined friends Liane and Patrick from California for lunch at Le Coup de Torchon @ Rue St. Jacques. It was fun to join in on their vacation and to get francophone Patrick's help with ordering. [He told us that even Parisians who compliment his French privately dismiss him as a country bumpkin because he learned French from his non-Parisian family.] After lunch Liane and Patrick went to a macaron baking class and we spent the afternoon wandering without a plan through the Garden of the Explorers, the Luxembourg Gardens and the Marché Mouffetard.
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Even Plan-Free Wanderers
Need Google Maps
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Liane and Patrick delivered a box of their delicious artisanal macarons later that evening. Not a single macaron made it onto the train we took early the next morning.
We travelled south to Brive-la-Gaillarde to begin a 50-mile walk in the Dordogne.
See ya there?
