Showing posts with label Whales. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Whales. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 11, 2015

July - August - September Adventures, 2015


As we write, we are in El Salvador and will soon post about life in the estuary and a recent "vacation" away from working on Abracadabra. But THIS post is about time we spent this summer/fall in California and Canada. We hope you enjoy traveling along and that we convince you to travel to a couple of places we have enjoyed!

Right Back Where We Started From

In mid-July we arrived back in Sacramento where we: 
  • house-sat for friends, Ken & Claudia Carlson; 
  • ate in favorite restaurants (including Hot Italian - Molly's current favorite pizza); 
  • stopped in at our favorite coffee shops (a shout out to the morning crowd at Espresso Metro and our neighbors at The Coffee Garden);
  • made a few repairs (all minor, fortunately) to our house;
  • enjoyed a show at the B-Street Theater; 
  • engaged in personal maintenance (updating contact lens prescriptions, getting teeth cleaned, etc.); 
  • visited our storage lockers (sadly, to see the mess created by what we expect were some very disappointed young thieves) [Side note: our losses were fairly minimal because the first layer of stuff the thieves found was boxes of Christmas decorations. We can imagine them rooting through those boxes and saying "who the f*%# has this many nativity scenes? - where are their electronics?"]; and, best, we
  • checked in with friends. 


Wine Maker's Lunch at Miraflores (Placerville, Ca, USA)
Thanks Perry & Anne!

Among our "housekeeping" items while in Sacramento was the sale of our trusty little SUV, "The Truck" which we had purchased in October, 2014.  

The Truck

Other nomadic types might be interested in the following: We did a rough calculation of our "ownership cost" [(purchase + licensing/registration + repairs) less sale receipt] to determine whether it was more cost effective to buy-and-sell or to rent. We figured we would have had to pay insurance and fuel for a rental vehicle. Roughly, our ownership cost for The Truck was about $400 a month, which is certainly less than the cost of renting an SUV (which, granted would have been a new SUV, but we didn't need a new car, only a safe one). 

Of course there were non-financial aspects to our decision. We wanted to drive The Truck to and from Mexico and would not have been able to take a U.S. rental car into Mexico. Our "ownership cost" calculation benefited from the lower labor rates for car repairs, but then we had some cosmetic or "non-safety" items taken care of in Mexico because of the lower labor costs (a small dent removed and a terrific cleaning job on some soiled upholstery). So - it's not a straight line calculation, but we are glad we did it this way. Next time, who knows?

Our house-sitting gig was, as always, restful and restorative. Not only did we get to stay in Ken and Claudia's lovely house in Sacramento and enjoy breakfasts in their back yard, but they were kind enough to invite us to visit them at their summer rental in Pacific Grove. The view from their Pacific Grove living room was spectacular - we didn't even need to move off the couch to see whales! But we were a little disappointed that our couch whale pictures were even better than those taken from Abracadabra!



Whale Out The Window!


We took a day trip to the Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo at Carmel-By-The Sea, famous as the burial place of Father Junipero Serra:



Yes, We Were There

And Yes, It's a Mission

We also walked from their apartment to the fabulous Monterrey Bay Aquarium, where we spent several hours - some of it entranced by the beautiful (but icky) Jelly exhibit: 



Beautiful . . . But Icky

And just FYI, if you can't visit Monterrey, you can watch the jellies on the aquarium's Jelly-Cam


Toronto, Ontario, Canada

In mid-August we visited Ontario, Canada to see friends and family. Our trip included a long-weekend in Toronto where we were joined by our friend Jean Ross, who came in from Brooklyn to engage in Acts of Photo Tourism with us. [Photography Tip: Jean's photography is in a class above - take a look at her work on: her website or her travel blog. We're happy to have a couple of her quick-snap shots here.]

We spent most of our time in TO following a free walking tour map around the central part of the city:


There Were Even Sign Posts

We were very impressed by the modern buildings that have been popping up all over the city:


Buildings Taking Pictures of Buildings
Taking Pictures of Buildings . . . 

And enjoyed the many "secret gardens" to be found around town:




Of course there were statues, some of them honoring Canadians' Sacrifices To Empire:


The Brave Fallen In The Boer War -
Now That Was Something To Die For

We photographed the "iconic" (a rare occasion that over-used term is actually the right one) CN Tower:


We Must Be In Toronto!


There were even places to rest while on tour.


Foreign Tourists (Bryce & Jean) Cooling Their Heels

Because it's Canada, there were visual jokes:


Blue Jay Fans

We also photographed some things not on the official tour, but quintessentially Toronto:



Toronto The Good

And of course we saw many buildings from Toronto's past - some put to excellent use:


The Center of Canadian Culture

We met friends David and Karin Milne for dinner one night to hear all about their new condo purchase on the waterfront. We're looking forward to visiting them there - the view promises to be spectacular.

One afternoon we traveled to the islands in Toronto Harbor. [Travel tip: Order tickets for the Toronto Ferry in advance via the internet - otherwise you will spend at least an hour in one of the lines for the ferry. We were saved by our friend Jim Thompson who, as a member of a yacht club on the island, was able to get us tickets on the yacht club's tender.]

Jim and Bryce had planned an afternoon sailing on Jim's O'Day 19. When Jean and Molly said they were just going to walk around the island, Jim kindly offered up his kayaks for the day. Jean hesitated for a moment, as she was dressed in jeans. (Molly's quick-dry skort was more kayak friendly.) But Jim gallantly offered up a pair of retro style shorts (aged on his boat for several years . . . ) complete with a piece of rope to hold them up! As a woman of substance over style, Jean thanked him, borrowed the shorts and went kayaking! Molly's only regret was that she failed to get a blackmail picture of Jean in those shorts.


Molly Kayaking With A View
Photographer: Jean Ross

Our cultural outing was to the newly opened Aga Khan Museum, a museum of Islamic art named for the hereditary Imam of the Shia Ismaili Muslims. It turned out to be a jewel box of a museum - an attractive building housing a relatively small, focused collection of beautiful things. Anyone who is interested in learning about and/or appreciating Islamic art will enjoy a visit.

The building and grounds are lovely:


The Entrance To The Museum

Jean Contemplating The Reflecting Pool

And the collection is laid out in historical context - particularly helpful for non-Muslim visitors.


Architectural Pieces -
Mother of Pearl Door Panels From India

Porcelain Basin - 16th Century China

That weekend the nearby Ismaili Center was holding an event, "Chai In The Park". We bought lunch from very enthusiastic Ismaili vendors in West African dress (fried casava - quite tasty) and watched members of the community enjoying the day. Many of the visitors were dressed in the style of one of the over 25 different countries in which Ismaili live. This community has a very well done and interesting website if you're interesting in learning about them.

We also visited the St. Lawrence Market which, in addition to being a major tourist destination is also a real food market! We bought a bottle of wine and some snacks to share at the hotel. [Travel Tip: Despite being a tourist destination this market is not open on Sunday! We made the mistake of trying to provision a Sunday picnic there . . . and were very disappointed.]

One tourist outing that turned out to be a bit "eh" for us was the much touted Brewery District. It's nice to see some older buildings renovated and put to use - but it's really just a shopping and restaurant mall (and wedding center - based on the number of bridal shots taking place that weekend). That said, we enjoyed a beer at one of the many brew-pubs and Molly found a very nice Toronto t-towel (tourist tchotchke for we who live on Abracadabra must be small and unbreakable). 


Our last tourist activity turned out to be the most disappointing - except that we are now armed with something to hold over Jean's head for future trips. Jean had read about Islington - purported to be a charming neighborhood (conveniently on the way to the airport) WITH shopping, dining and interesting public art wall murals. So - why not? 

Well, we found the shopping to be somewhat limited:


Main Drag, Islington

The murals were technically fine, but a bit on the "too cute" plan:


An Islington Mural

And the lunch we had at a store-front Italian deli would have been more appropriate as a quick work-day lunch. 

So, we can check Islington off our list . . . except as blackmail material.  

[Travel Tip: Internet travel comments are just that -- random comments.] 


Kawartha Lakes Area, Ontario

The rest of our three weeks was spent in Lakefield, Bryce's home town, visiting family and taking day trips to some of the resorts in the surrounding Kawartha Lakes area. We've written a couple of posts about this area -- enough to have a "label" for Ontario - so we will try not to repeat ourselves. But we will repeat that it's a very nice place to visit.

We have the luxury of staying in a lovely old house right on the main street of the village (Lakefield's Queen Street) with Bryce's sister, Brenda.


A Rose-of-Sharon, far right.
Brenda, middle. Friend Glenda, left.
 
  
We enjoyed long walks along the river and canal system that runs behind Brenda's home almost every morning. During our rambles we passed:



Kayaks For Rent

The Local Beach,
Where Teen-aged Triathletes Were In Training

RV-ers With (Apparently) Long-Term Leases

Kayakers

Any calorie expenditure was often offset by a stop at the Nuttshell Next Door Cafe.  What's a reviving coffee without a reviving scone?

During each visit to Lakefield we try to build in a trip to one or more local tourist attractions. This time we took the Stoney Lake Cruise - a pleasant motor around the alleged 1,000 islands in Stoney Lake. While we listened to the tour guide's description of the history of the lake and the cottages around it, including which were owned by famous hockey stars or had been used as a soap opera set, much of our personal tour could perhaps be called "A Tour of Bryce's Youthful Boating Misadventures". Listening made Molly very happy that he'd gotten all of that out of his system before she met him!


Cottage Country

Enjoying Being A Passenger

We also visited with family - which was by times great fun (Kyle's steak dinner for the gang in Brenda's back yard; dinner out with Kacey's clan; lunch with cousin Ken Andrews) and friends (lunch with David and Lynn McCracken; dinner at Glenda's with George and Marie). 

But, because life is like that, our visit had some more somber moments. Bryce's Aunt Jessie, age 99, died within a few days of our arrival. Her departure was very sad for us not only because we will miss her presence, but also because she was the last remaining member of that generation of Bryce's family. 

We're thankful that we got to visit her when we first arrived. We had been told she was failing, so we were surprised to find that she was, for a short period of time, very lively. We had a nice visit - and came away with one particularly fun memory: Molly was holding Jessie's hand and talking about what had become Jessie's favorite topic - her childhood on the family farm. "Now, Jessie, I know there were cows and horses on the farm, but were there other animals? Did you have pigs?" Jessie's mischievous face lit up and she leaned in as if for a confidence. "Oh, yes, pigs. . . . . Nasty smelly things!" And then she laughed. Yes, we will miss Aunt Jessie.

In closing, in honor of Aunt Jessie's long life, we wish for you: A life with more cows and horses than pigs, and a chance to find your own little charming village. And for us, that you let us know about your visit when you do!


Next post: Finally one about El Salvador!







Tuesday, April 1, 2014

La Cruz to Barra -- February 3 - 13, 2014

More catching up (think of it as a movie flash back):


Heading Out -- February 3:


We were released from embargo on January 31 and left Marina Nayarit three days later . . . sailing a whopping nine miles west to the Punta de Mita anchorage.  Our plan was to spend time acclimatizing to life on a moving vessel before heading around the somewhat intimidating Cabo Corrientes and further. Every departure from the dock brings a feeling of freedom - but this time we felt very free!

At 18.30, three hours after we departed the dock in La Cruz -- just in time for cocktail hour -- we dropped the hook in sight of the Four Seasons Punta de Mita golf course.  Dinner on the grill and a rum and tonic in hand we celebrated escaping the bizarre paperwork tangle tango that had kept us in La Cruz for six weeks longer than planned. 


At Anchor - Better Than A Night At The Four Seasons!

The next day we prepared meals for our overnight trip around the cape, kept our eye on the golf course to see if we could see anyone famous, and watched the local fishermen at work.






Another night at anchor helped prepare us for sailing again.  


On To ??? -- February 5 - 6

Bryce brought the anchor up at 08.30 and we motored into light breezes.  It was a gorgeous morning. A whale energetically waved good-bye to us; or perhaps was simply flipping sideways to nurse a calf -- but we like the idea of the whale wishing us a safe journey.



Hasta luego, Abracadabra!!!

The winds came up around 13.30. And then up, and up and up . . . We had winds up to 28 knots with gusts up to 34 for the entire day and night. But by the time the sun came up:

  
Sunrise

. . . the wind had dropped like a rock and we were motoring and we had zipped past our initial destination (Bahia Chamela) in the night!

We decided to sail on to Bahia Tenacatita, and dropped anchor there at 11:00. We were happy to see Flyin Sideways a boat we had "met" over the radio while rounding Cabo Corrientes and several other boats known to us from Mazatlan and La Cruz.  

We stayed in Tenacatita Bay for a week reveling in being at anchor and, sadly, we managed not to take a single picture the whole time we were there!

In Tenacatita, on every Friday night during the cruising season, there is a "Mayor's Raft-Up" - a sort-of floating cocktail party. Everyone at anchor in the bay (there were over 20 boats at anchor that week) dinghies to a calm part of the bay and ties up to a central anchor set by "the mayor".  Appetizers, books and CDs are passed and stories are swapped. We've enjoyed these parties in the past and this raft-up was no exception. 

On our last day at anchor we took our dinghy to shore and shared a cab with the crew of S/v Overheated (Rita and Darrel) to the nearby town of La Manzanilla.  We walked through the town, had breakfast and purchased groceries while Overheated's laundry was done at a local lavanderia. Retail activities finished, we taxied back to the enramada on the beach near the anchorage for lunch - and after a careful (dry) dinghy launch, motored home to Abracadabra with food for the next leg of our journey. 


Tenacatita to Barra de Navidad -- February 13

From Tenacatita we planned to travel to Cuastecomate , which is called the "secret anchorage" in cruising literature because the entry to this pretty little bay is so well hidden.  This bay was a favorite of ours in previous seasons and we were looking forward to another visit. We lazed out of Bahia Tenacatita after lunch and sailed the eleven miles to Cuastecomate only to find that -- the secret as out!  Cuastecomate was a very full anchorage.  

So we sailed on to the next planned place, the marina across from Barra de Navidad, located next to a very luxurious Wyndam Hotel!


The Wyndam at Barra
We were happy to arrive in Barra because our friend Jim Thompson was scheduled to meet us there on the 21st, and we were looking forward to a little hanging-by-the-pool time before we all set off on a trip to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo.

But sadly, lurking in our e-mail inbox was another "paperwork tangle tango" -- this time a tangle tango created by our very own California Public Employee's Retirement System!  

More to come.  

[This is what they call a "cliff hanger" in the movie biz . . . ]


Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Making The Best of It -- January 12 - 21, 2014


Update on "The Situation"

If you don't know what we mean by "The Situation", and want to make sense of the following, see our three immediately prior postings.  Since our January 12 post:

January 16:  Officials from AGACE, an auditing branch of the Servicio de Administration Tibutaria (SAT) met with owners of many of the boats that have been put on embargo precautorio (precautionary embargo) status here in La Cruz.  The following description of the meeting with the skipper of the '62 foot catamaran Profligate (her nom de plum is Dona de Mallorca) comes from a post on 'Lectronic Latitude, the blog by the publishers of the West Coast sailing magazine Latitude 38:
". . . Dona de Mallorca asked them about the boat's status. The pleasant AGACE agent looked into the files and said, 'There are no problems with your boat.'  'Great,' said de Mallorca, 'she's free to go?'  'No,' replied the AGACE agent, 'she's still impounded.' He refused to say why or when she'll be released."
January 17:  When we returned from an out-of-town trip (see below - much more fun to read about than this embargo issue) we met with the lawyer for Marina Riviera Nayarit.  He confirmed that Abracadabra is one of the fully compliant boats.  He said he would be taking additional documentation to Guadalajara to seek release of all of the compliant boats on Friday, January 24.    

January 20:  'Lectronic Latitude reported that one embargoed boat in Ensenada has been told that there is a process for seeking release from embargo which includes sending copies of the vessel's temporary import permit, U.S. Coast Guard document, Mexican liability insurance policy and the owners' passports along with a letter from the marina seeking release of the vessel.  Release pursuant to this process is supposed to take two weeks. [Oddly, except for the letter, all of the documents listed above were in Abracadabra's file at the marina office that AGACE reviewed in November.]

January 21:  We sent the 'Lectronic Latitude report to the marina's lawyer, and he has said the La Cruz Harbor Master will be discussing this report with the Harbor Master for Ensenada.  We also sent this report to the U.S. Consul's office.  That office responded, suggesting that we either hire a lawyer or contact SAT in Zapopan (near Guadalajara) to request a review of our case. Sadly, the individual the Consul's office identified as our SAT contact was the same official that told people on January 16 that compliant boats could not be released.  We have pointed this out to the U.S. Consul's office and suggested that a trip to Zapopan sounded to us like an exercise in futility.  We've sent an e-mail to our Congressional Representative, Doris Matsui asking for assistance in working with the U.S. Consul.  Why?  Because we voted for her. 

Sigh.  Molly had a dream the other night in which we walked along the shore towards Abracadabra.  Or where she should have been, at anchor.  In that odd omniscient way of dreams, she saw that someone had cut the anchor rode and had sailed Abracadabra away. She woke up in the V-berth, convinced that someone had stolen Abracadabra.  We think that even without a PhD in psychology one can interpret this one . . .  

On to more pleasant topics:

Taking A Rest Cure in San Sebastian del Oeste:

To avoid succumbing to enfermidad de embargo precautorio we decided to take a short trip to a reportedly charming mountain village: San Sebastian del Oeste.  

And it is charming.  


San Sebastian del Oeste

The main square looks a bit like a movie set waiting for the director to cue the arrival of Pancho Villa or a dusty pickup carrying El Mariachi.


View From Restaurante Los Arcos del Sol

Commerce
The church - full of images of San Sebstian stuck through with arrows -- was prettier than we expected.


San Sebastian - Stage Right - With Arrows

Alter

Easter Egg Ceiling

Bell Tower

It's chilly this time of year in the mountains (about 40 degrees Fahrenheit at night while we were there) so we were able to practice sleeping under blankets, wearing jeans and jackets and putting on socks to dash from bed to bath (our hotel had thick adobe walls and no heat).  While that may not sound so charming to those who live in chilly climes, it was fun for us - well, for two nights, anyway.


Things to Do in San Sebastian:


Not much.  That's the point.  There wasn't even a television or internet coverage at our hotel!  

We took several long walks.  

One was to a restored mining Hacienda in the hills above the village often frequented by the director John Huston.  


Hacienda Jailisco

It is a lovely walk along a babbling stream which, unfortunately lost some of its charm for Molly when she slipped on a mossy rock and went ass first into the cold water.  There was a minor injury to a finger and a more significant injury to her ego (she had to walk back to the hotel through the village making squish, squish, squish sounds . . . ) but we'd still recommend the walk.  Just maybe in the dry season.   



Efficient Mexican Clothes Dryer

The Injured Digit
 We rambled around the other routes in and out of town:



Cobblestone Street - Complete With Sky TV Antenna

Charm, Charm, Charm . . . But is There Heat?

Wandering Guy

 We watched events related to the novena to San Sebastian.   


The novena is the nine day run-up to the saint's day (January 20) which is also the "homecoming day" for the village. This is the day when those born in the village that are able to do so return home to do what Mexicans do when they're celebrating something: visit family, eat, drink, dance and laugh.  We were told that, beginning on the Friday night after our departure, every hotel room in the whole town was booked (and if you are younger than 10 you get a place on the floor with your cousins!).      
The daily ritual of the novena included:  

  • 5:30 a.m.: Very loud fireworks were shot of in front of the church (not sparkly fireworks -- rockets that made whistle-y, boom bomb-like noises).  We were told this was to open the heavens for San Sebastian
  • Noon: More fireworks. 
  • 5 p.m.:  More fireworks.
  • 6 p.m.:  San Sebastian was paraded through town to the church, with an accompanying band. 
  • 10:30 p.m.:  Even more very loud fireworks. 

How could a saint not feel well and truly welcome?


Primary Grade Roman Soldier
On His Way To Church Via Pickup Truck

Musical Welcome to San Sebastian


We watched the hordes of day-trippers arrive around 11:00 each morning, walk around, have lunch, and leave around 2:00.  We came to know most of the five overnight tourists by name.

And we took naps and read books under blankets.


Getting There Is Half The Adventure:

Because San Sebastian has narrow, cobbled streets and is reached by a winding, narrow road there is no bus service directly to the village.  Several guided tours make day trips there, and intrepid drivers can reach the village by rental car.  We wanted to stay over night and as all our readers know  . . . we're cheap, so we got there by taking:

  • The local bus from La Cruz to Puerto Vallarta (17 pesos or about $1.35 usd each);
  • A longer distance bus from PV to the farming village of La Estancia (80 pesos or about $6.75 usd each); and
  • A cab up the hill from La Estancia to San Sebastian (100 pesos - shared with another tourist = about $3 usd each).   
The address for the bus station in PV (this line has it's own station) and the schedule and fares from PV to Talpa de Allende (La Estancia is a stop on this line) are found here:

The local bus from La Cruz goes near this station, but we're not sure how close.  We had to get off early to get cash -- note: there is only one stand-alone ATM in San Sebastian and none of the local businesses take credit cards.  We took a cab from the  bank to the bus station. 

La Estancia, where you will find a cab to San Sebastian is the bano stop (3 pesos to use the w.c.) about half-way from PV to Talpa de Allende.  The 100-peso cab fare from La Estancia up the hill is apparently non-negotiable (we watched someone make an unsuccessful attempt to get a discount . . . ) but you might find other tourists going to San Sebastian that will share the cab and cost with you.  And really - even if you pay the full fare, it's under $8.35 usd!

The bus to La Estancia is not the super premium long distance bus we're used to riding in Mexico - it's pretty rattle-y and it stops frequently along the way.  But the ride includes great views - both landscape and portrait.

Other Potentially Useful Information:

Hotel:  We stayed at the Real San Sebastian which was picturesque and clean and at 700 pesos ($58 usd +/-) not a budget buster.  


Rooms Upstairs, In The Back

But it was really just four rooms above a restaurant.  No maid service on our second day.  No hot water until we reminded the guy that had met us upon our arrival that the boilers needed to be turned on.  There are several hotels in town, many with websites.  We're told some of the smaller hotels without web presence are clean and comfortable - you might consider just showing up and trying to find a room though it would be a bad place to not have a room as it's a long way to the next town with hotels. . . .

Food:  Most visitors to San Sebastian are day-trippers, and there are a number of good places to have breakfast and lunch.  We particularly enjoyed El Fortin in the square.  Dinner is another matter.  The locally famous Italian restaurant we had looked forward to visiting is only open Thursday through Sunday; and, of course, we were there on Tuesday and Wednesday nights.  Poor planning on our part.  Fortunately El Fortin was open on Wednesday night.  Our Tuesday night option (the only place in town that was open!) was expensive and just . . . fine. 

Coffee:  They grow it and roast it, and it's good in the two local coffee shops.  Restaurants may not do their best to showcase the local product.

Money:  There are no banks in San Sebastian and only one ATM.  Local businesses do not take credit cards.  Take cash.

Recommendation:  All-in-all it was a very nice stay - sodden butt and shoes and lack of Italian food notwithstanding.  If you're staying in PV for an extended period of time and are looking for a way to get away from la multitud de touristas a la playa - try a few days in San Sebastian.  Thursday and Friday, maybe.

Day Sailing

Last Sunday we had another lovely day sail on Bahia Banderas.  One of our Spanish instructors from Guanajuato, Rojelio Granda, joined us.  You may recall we tried to go sailing with Rojelio and his wife the weekend before, but we all opted out because it poured rain off and on all day.  Happily the weather was perfect last Sunday - wind up to 12 knots kept us sailing most of the afternoon.  




Rojelio At The Helm

And the famous whales were accommodating and put on a bit of a show for us.  


It's A Whale!
It Was A Whale!

It felt good to stay in sailing shape for the great day when Abracadabra is released! 

More stories of Life At The Dock to come.  And, hopefully, news of Abracadabra's release . . . or a plan for release . . . or something.