Panama Quarantine Update, May 2020

Swingin' Through The Trees

As of today the Panamanian border has been closed for 75 days. The national "stay at home" order has been in effect for 67 days. But, as the rest of the world begins to open up, so does Panama. And like the rest of the world we are both (a) looking forward to more human interaction and freedom of movement and (b) nervous about what those will mean for our health and the health of others. 

Here's what we know about how life is changing - again - in our little part of Panama:

Panama-Wide Changes

The national government has issued a six-stage reopening plan, each stage based on the achievement of certain virus-related metrics (reductions in cases, increases in testing, etc.). 

Stage One opened earlier in May when a few businesses were allowed to resume and some work restored (e.g., fishing was permitted and a fisherman began to visit the marina offering fish for sale). On May 11 the prohibition against alcohol sales was lifted (hip, hip!). Individuals are now permitted to purchase one bottle of wine or spirits, or a six pack of beer on his or her shopping days. We don't routinely drink a bottle of wine or a six-pack of beer a day (and really aren't used to drinking an entire bottle of booze in one day!) but we do buy our limit every time we go to the store -- we've been fooled before (left dry when the original prohibition was imposed without warning) so we have been stashing some beer and wine in anticipation of another possible shut-down (well, if six bottles of wine and six beers = a stash?). On May 18 people were allowed to exercise outside during their one hour, every-other-day shopping time. 

Stage Two begins June 1, when:

• The electronics, textile and electricity sectors of the economy and the construction on public buildings will resume which means, thankfully, some people will be able to go back to work. 
• Places of worship, parks and sports facilities may be opened at 25% capacity.
• One of the world's strictest stay-at-home orders will be replaced by an overnight quarantine (7 p.m. to 5 a.m.). Individuals will be able to shop for groceries during the day, until 7 p.m., seven days a week (i.e., the prior gender-specific shopping days and two-hour shopping periods based on the shopper's national identity card or passport number will no longer be in effect). Equally exciting for everyone here, individuals will be able to leave home with their family members, exercise outside (distantly), and even walk their dogs!  

Each stage is tied to the achievement of various health metrics (reductions in cases, increases in testing, etc.) so there's no assurance as to when any of the next four stages will happen. 

Commercial flights and other tourist-related businesses (hotels, restaurants, etc.) will resume in Stage Four. Before the establishment of the Six Stage plan, the government said that the country's borders would not open and regular commercial flights in, out and within Panama would not begin until June 22 at the earliest. Under the Six Stage system our bet is borders will open and flights will begin on July 1. [Side note: There have been repatriation flights to the U.S. available to U.S. citizens and residents who are unable or do not want to wait for commercial flights. We have chosen not to take those - so far.] 

A Border-Crossing Story: Three days ago two American-flagged yachts transiting from Jamaica entered Panama at Bocas del Toro. They were were allowed to anchor, but this morning were told to leave. The last we heard they were seeking clarification of this eviction from Panama City. 

Movement of pleasure craft (which is what we think applies to us - ?) within Panamanian waters will be permitted in Stage Five which will begin - whenever it begins. See above for our bet as to when Stage Four will begin.

Bocas del Toro Changes

The disheartening news in the Bocas del Toro archipelago is that there has been a confirmed case of COVID-19 in Bocas Town. Until now we have taken comfort in the fact that though the mainland area of the Province of Bocas del Toro has had reported cases, our little island community has been reported-case free. Our little cocoon has been invaded.  

On a lighter note -- even though pleasure craft cannot move about within Panama until Stage Five, yachts seem to be changing anchorages and marinas within the Bocas archipelago. Two other yachts recently left the Bocas area to travel east to Shelter Bay Marina near Colon hoping to transit the Panama Canal. The Canal has established a program to permit boats to transit. So -- a lack of clarity here (see above re:; boats facing eviction).  

Red Frog Marina Changes 

The Red Frog Marina has opened up a bit. There are now two boats a week taking people to shop in Bocas Town. Bryce took his first trip to The Big City this week and all went well. Molly will try some grocery shopping next Wednesday. Masks are required fashion accessories in town.

The most recent marina bad news is that Chris of S/V Blue Paradise -- the operator of The Point restaurant from which he offers great take-out pizza as the marina's only respite from home cooking -- is leaving on a repatriation flight next week. Molly's first reaction was to check into when the next subsequent repatriation flight was scheduled. Bryce has reminded her that Chris took a break earlier this month and she survived for two weeks without someone else's cooking and that he is sure she can live pizza-free for . . . a while. On Chris's last day in business we bought a second pizza for the freezer. A freezer - on Abracadabra? Well, no. Which takes us to our biggest news:

And . . . We Are Jungle Villagers!

Beginning in early May we arranged to house-sit one of the Red Frog Resort's Jungle Village units. We have been Dirt Dwellers for a whole month and It. Is. Heaven. A bit of a mosquito-and-other-bug-infested heaven -- it's called a Jungle Lodge for a reason -- but heaven nonetheless. 

The View From Jungle Lodge 1's Deck -
Another Jungle Lodge And The Caribbean
(Not That Jungle-y -- Note The Sky Disc!) 

In our new digs we have a fabulous view (see above), two air-conditioned bedrooms, three bathrooms, a real kitchen (stand-up fridge and microwave!), private WiFi and . . . a washer and drier. All that makes it worth dealing with bugs. 

And Besides, Some Of The Bugs Are Really Cool

Our back deck not only looks out over the Caribbean (see above) but onto a veritable Capuchin Monkey Highway. We get free, live National Geographic entertainment a couple of afternoons a week:

 

 

Our favorite part of Monkey Highway is that they sometimes pause and look at us - as if they are as curious as we are. Fortunately, none of them has approached the deck. We are not really fans of up-close-and-personal monkey experiences; in the past we have had things stolen by monkeys (shiny sunglasses and water bottles) and even the tiny ones are kinda scary when they bare their teeth.   

Some of our neighbors are less welcome than our primate neighbors.

Not Clear What Type Of Snake . . .
But It Doesn't Look At All Cute 

Because the Jungle Village is part of the same resort, we are able to visit the marina and shop at the small local grocery store located outside of the marina. Bastimentos Island is very hilly and groceries can be very heavy (see above about our one-bottle of wine per shopping trip . . . so our related Next Big New Thing is: we have rented a golf cart! When we first took possession of our chariot, Bryce was given a 5-minute lesson on where the stop and go buttons are and how to plug the electric motor in. He jumped into the vehicle and realized -- he had somehow managed to get to the advanced age of 67 without having ever driven a golf cart! He's now a pro (though his golf game hasn't improved).

Bryce On His Way To Rob  oops --
Shop At The Grocery Store

We primarily use the golf cart for grocery shopping and moving things from the boat to the house and vice-versa. We still spend time on most dry days walking the Red Frog Resort property. Bryce has become fascinated by the armies of leaf-cutter ants we see everywhere (okay, there's not much else to do around here . . . ):

On the other end of the movement spectrum - we got a video of a sloth moving quickly (for a sloth).

So that's where things stand in Panama at the moment. We are well and in a good place. We hope you are too, though we worry for those of you in the U.S. even more than ever. Take care, Friends!

Soon we will scribble more about our trip to France.